Asia & History: Angkor revealed, Henri Mouhot's journey through Cambodia and beyond

In the middle of the 19th century, when Europe was intoxicated by conquests, science and distant dreams, a discreet figure, almost forgotten in the collective memory, was preparing to register his name among the great discoverers.

Henri Mouhot

Henri Mouhot, son of peaceful Montbéliard, had neither the fortune nor the support of the illustrious explorers of his time. He nonetheless possessed the flame that burned with an insatiable desire to understand, to see and to bear witness. It is to him that we owe the rediscovery, for the West, of one of Asia's most prodigious monumental ensembles: Angkor.

Mouhot's story is that of a man torn between industrious Europe and the mysterious Orient, between the rigor of science and the call of the marvelous. His destiny, marked by self-sacrifice, curiosity and sometimes solitude, sheds new light on the period when Southeast Asia was opening up, not without resistance, to the avid gaze of scholars and adventurers.

The origins and training of an explorer

Born on May 15, 1826 in Montbéliard, Henri Mouhot belonged to a provincial France where modest circumstances did not exclude ambition and dignity. His father, a civil servant, and his mother, a woman of great merit, made great sacrifices to give their children an education worthy of the name. The premature death of his mother, exhausted by her devotion, left an indelible mark on young Henri's sensitive soul.

At the Collège de Montbéliard, he first studied philosophy, dreaming of becoming a teacher. But his teachers already perceived in him a singular temperament: an ardent love of the arts, a facility for languages, and above all an insatiable curiosity for the natural sciences. These were the seeds of a vocation that was soon to assert itself.

The irresistible call of the vast world took him to Russia. There, he was warmly welcomed by literary and artistic societies. As a teacher at the Voronezh Cadet Corps, he traveled the Tsarist empire, drawing, observing and collecting. For twelve years, he immersed himself in landscapes, people and monuments, refining the naturalist's and artist's eye that would make him unique.

But history, capricious as it was, called Mouhot back to France on the eve of the Franco-Russian war. This return to his roots was only a prelude to new beginnings. Alongside his brother Charles, he discovered Germany, Italy, Holland, then England, where he married a niece of the famous explorer Mungo Park. In The Hague, the two brothers founded a photographic establishment, exploring the potential of a new technique in the service of science and art.

It was on the island of Jersey, a haven of peace and reflection, that Mouhot immersed himself in the study of ornithology and conchyliology. But reading an English book on the Kingdom of Siam was a revelation. From then on, his destiny was sealed: he would be an explorer, and Asia would be his theater.

Russia, a laboratory of exile and learning

Russia, a land of contrasts and extremes, shaped the young Mouhot. He discovered not only the harshness of the climate, but also the diversity of peoples and cultures. His mind, eager for knowledge, opened up to the infinity of the steppes, the majesty of the forests and the complexity of human societies. He learned patience, resilience and, above all, the art of meticulous observation that was to become his trademark.

His drawings, descriptions and collections bear witness to his encyclopedic curiosity. He was as interested in people as animals, monuments as landscapes. This Russian period, often neglected by biographers, is nonetheless essential: it forges the explorer, preparing him for the trials to come.

Europe, photography and the call of Asia

Back in Europe, Mouhot was not content to live in the memory of his Russian years. He was introduced to photography, an invention that revolutionized the way the world was represented. With his brother, he traveled to museums and the countryside, immortalizing masterpieces and natural wonders. But Europe, for all its riches, was no longer enough to feed his thirst for the unknown.

The discovery of a book on Siam acted as a catalyst. Mouhot realized that his destiny lay elsewhere, in those still mysterious lands where the West had only timidly set foot. He tried to enlist the support of French learned societies, was turned down, but found the necessary backing in London. On April 27, 1858, he set sail for Singapore, then Bangkok, ready to face the unknown.

Leaving for Asia - First steps in Siam

Singapore, then Bangkok: Mouhot discovers a world that is both rich and bewildering. The “Venice of the Orient”, with its canals, temples and motley crowds, fascinated him. He observed, described, drew and collected. His curiosity knew no bounds: he was interested not only in customs, beliefs and institutions, but also in the incredibly rich flora and fauna.

He visited Ajuthia, the ancient capital, explored Mount Phrabat, collected the footprints of antediluvian animals and marveled at the luxuriance of nature. Everywhere, he noted, drew and collected, sending rare specimens to Europe to enrich museums and learned societies.

But Mouhot was not just a scholar. He was also a lucid witness to the societies he traversed. He denounced slavery, misery and servility, but also recognized the beauty and gentle way of life that characterized these peoples.

The journey to Cambodia - the road to Angkor

It was in Cambodia that Mouhot's destiny hung in the balance. Leaving Bangkok at the end of 1858, he made his way up the Mekong, crossing wild landscapes, confronting disease, beasts and sometimes hostile people. In Kampot, he met Abbé Hestrest, then the King of Cambodia, who granted him an audience and a letter of recommendation.

The road to Angkor is full of pitfalls. The roads were bad, villages rare and poverty omnipresent. But Mouhot, driven by an indomitable energy, continues on his way, noting everything, observing everything, marveling at the beauty of the landscapes and the diversity of the peoples.

Discovering Angkor - wonder and testimony

At last, we arrive at the ruins of Angkor. Mouhot, overcome with emotion, discovers an architectural ensemble of unprecedented grandeur. The temples, overgrown by jungle, bear witness to a vanished civilization, whose mysteries he attempts to unravel. He describes in detail Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, the bas-reliefs, the statues, the slender towers.

His account, imbued with poetry and admiration, is a landmark. He compares Angkor to the greatest monuments of antiquity, not hesitating to write: “One of these temples, rivaling the Solomon, erected by some Michelangelo of the East, could take an honorable place beside our most beautiful edifices”. He wonders about the origin of these ruins, the civilization that built them, and the causes of their decline.

Mouhot didn't just describe: he also drew, photographed, took samples and wrote valuable notes. His testimony, published after his death, aroused enthusiasm in Europe and rekindled interest in Khmer archaeology.

The scientific and human legacy

Beyond the discovery of Angkor, Mouhot left a considerable scientific legacy. His collections enriched museums, and his observations advanced knowledge of the fauna, flora and peoples of Indochina. But his legacy is also a human one: he embodies a certain idea of exploration, based on rigor, curiosity and respect.

Death in an unknown land and the birth of a myth

Exhausted by fever and deprivation, Mouhot died in 1861, not far from Luang Prabang in Laos. His grave, lost in the jungle, became a place of remembrance. His diary, published posthumously, made him a romantic hero, a symbol of the quest for the unknown and sacrifice in the name of science.

Henri Mouhot, long forgotten, is now recognized as one of the great bridge-builders between East and West. His rediscovery of Angkor paved the way for generations of archaeologists, historians and travelers. But beyond the explorer, it's the man, with his doubts, his wonder, his generosity, who continues to fascinate us.