Phnom Penh & Destination : Water Tower, A Weekend in Weightlessness

Emmanuel Pezard
Apr 16
4 min read

Between industrial heritage and suspended relaxation, Koh Pich's former water tower is embarking on a second life. Vannak and I tested this atypical 'perch' for ourselves: a duplex immersion between the sky and the Mekong, where the raw rigour of metal meets the softness of a sunset.

Water Tower, A Weekend in Weightlessness

At the foot of the new Norea Bridge, which now connects Koh Pich to Chbar Ampov, lies an architectural curiosity that stands out from the capital's usual standards: The Water Tower. At the very spot where the Mekong regains its steady flow after the separation of the 'Four Faces,' this former utility water tower has begun a second life under the impetus of Alexis de Suremain (MAADS).

The Crossing: A Decompression Chamber

To reach this perch, the experience begins with a horizontal immersion. You first cross Koh Pich to head deep into Treellion Park. It is a rare luxury in Phnom Penh to be able to walk like this, among trees and lawns, before reaching your lodgings. This stroll through the greenery acts as a true decompression chamber; you leave the roar of engines behind, keeping only the sound of the wind through the leaves.

The welcome takes place at Gaato, a bright café-gallery that serves as the project’s anchor. Far from the rigid receptions of grand hotels, we found a team whose natural kindness and immediate attentiveness create the atmosphere of a friend's home.

You aren't "checked in"; you are received, before being escorted toward what will be your "room" for the night: the tower itself. It is at the end of this path, almost hidden amidst the vegetation, that the adventure truly begins.

A Private Duplex Perch

The experience is one of total intimacy, a secret shared thirteen meters above the ground. The duplex proudly embraces its "Factory" side. Here, metal is omnipresent—not as a constraint, but as a tribute to the site's industrial rigour. The reinforced joints and raw iron bear witness to a renovation that has successfully preserved the soul of the original structure.

The layout relies on high-quality materials and impressive soundproofing. Located right at the bridge's entrance, the building inevitably faces the urban hustle, but once the doors are gently closed, you drift into a cocoon of silence. A play of mirrors and curtains allows you to modulate the space, shifting from a total opening onto the city to a protective seclusion. The bed, suspended in front of the massive floor-to-ceiling windows, offers a commanding view of the Noria Bridge. Watching the incessant ballet of cars and sand barges on the river, one feels like a river guard keeping watch over the Mekong.

Leisure at the Summit: Bubbles and Reflections

The real showstopper is right at the top. By transforming the summit of the former reservoir into a private swimming pool, the project symbolically brings the water cycle full circle. During the day, the pool serves as a prime observation deck, right in the heart of the neighborhood's energy. Even if the management is still working on a few technical details—such as the basin’s paint, which is peeling slightly under the heat of the sun—the experience remains spectacular.

But it is at the end of the day that the charm truly takes hold, as the tumult subsides. Settled on the terrace as the calm slowly returns, we opted for a bottle of well-chilled rosé Prosecco. The fine bubbles pair perfectly with the fading light. It was there, in that suspended basin, that Vannak summed up the atmosphere:

"During the day, you're right in the heart of the action; you see everything happening on the bridge, it feels alive. But once the sun goes down, with a glass in hand, we’re in our own bubble. We watch the people passing by below and the parade of boats on the river, but we’re somewhere else entirely.”

In the evening, the spectacle becomes even more hypnotic. The Norea Bridge lights up in the colors of the Cambodian flag, casting tricolor reflections across the water's surface. Swimming like this, between sky and river, is a privileged moment. As Vannak puts it:

"You quickly forget it used to be a water tower. It’s just become a truly quirky spot to watch the city light up."

Floatation: Dining to the Rhythm of the River

To extend the evening, we head back down to earth—or rather, to the water. Floatation restaurant is a floating structure moored right at the foot of the tower. The experience there is radically different: after the verticality of the steel, it’s time for the gentle swaying of the Mekong. Sitting on this boat means accepting the embrace of the current's imperceptible movement. The mood is one of absolute relaxation.

We start with two cocktails: a classic Gin and Tonic for Vannak and a passion fruit Mojito for me. The freshness of the fruit and the bitterness of the gin meld with the sound of water lapping against the hull. In this laid-back atmosphere, we enjoyed a "Seafood" pizza, taking in the night breeze drifting up the river. It’s a moment of simplicity that perfectly complements the exclusivity of the duplex.

Art and Morning Softness

The following morning, returning to Gaato for breakfast allowed us to greet the Mekong one last time. The space is an invitation to inspiration, featuring Yann Defond’s ethereal structures that float like echoes of the kites from his exhibition, Kites of the Red Earth.

The menu choices reflect the spirit of the place—a blend of tradition and modernity: an authentic Khmer version for Vannak and a more classic "Western" option for me. It was a gentle way to reconnect with reality before leaving this island of creativity.

By offering this hybrid and resolutely quirky concept, the Water Tower establishes itself as an essential stop for those who love discovering Phnom Penh from a different perspective. It is a testament to the boldest things the city can offer when it decides to recycle its history with taste.

And as for us, we are ready for new wanderings!