Destination Cambodia: The Best Way to Discover Koh Rong Sanloem

Christophe Gargiulo
2 hours ago
5 min read

For a long weekend, we decided to discover Koh Rong Sanloem, one of the last Cambodian islands in the Gulf of Thailand that we had not yet visited. We had heard many positive reports, particularly about the quality of its beaches, the purity of its waters, and the beauty of its landscapes.

After an easy two-hour drive on the expressway from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville, we boarded a speedboat that reached the island in forty minutes. Clean, fast, and operated by an efficient, professional crew, the boat cruised smoothly after a brief stop at Village 23. Its spectacular bay, with crystal-clear waters, offered a first glimpse of the pleasant surprises to come.

Upon arrival at the Saracen Bay Beach wharf, the view was breathtaking, and our son was already asking permission to swim, so inviting was the shoreline. As we disembarked, the Island Center Point Resort team took charge of our luggage and drove us to the hotel by tractor—an amusing local touch. The distance was short, but at noon, under a cloudless sky and blazing sun, the assistance was welcome.

We discovered Island Center Point Resort with a sense of wonder, facing a vast stretch of immaculate white sand and clear turquoise waters, just 150 meters from the bungalows. The private beach was pristine, clearly maintained daily by the staff. Check-in at the open-air palapa reception was seamless: a cool towel, a welcome cocktail, and the traditional Khmer smile.

Villa and resort

The villa was perfectly suited to a family of three like ours: sea view, modern design, sturdy furniture, and elegant minimalist décor. We had chosen a superior bungalow for couples, measuring 35 square meters, with a king-size bed and a semi-outdoor bathroom open to the sky—an ideal blend of nature, privacy, and space. No television, and all the better for it. The resort spans three hectares of lush vegetation and shade-giving trees.

The open reception area and the Islander restaurant under palapa roofs, with shaded cabanas, immediately created the feeling of a timeless holiday. Within minutes, we were in our swimsuits and heading to the beach. With a steady breeze and small rolling waves, our son splashed about with delight. Sturdy, well-maintained canoes and paddleboards kept us busy all afternoon with “mini-surf” sessions, alternating joyful glides, falls, and the thrill of discovery. The place evoked a South Pacific island where part of our family lives.

Between rides, we relaxed under our cabana, admiring the blue-and-white tropical scenery, almost Polynesian in feel. A team of young Cambodians cleaned the beach continuously, even removing the brown seaweed left by the waves, ensuring an immaculate shoreline at all times.

Restaurant

Tired from the journey and an active afternoon of playful “surfing” and canoeing, we opted for an early dinner in the large, soothing tropical restaurant. It welcomed many guests, mostly tourists from Eastern Europe. The menu read like a culinary postcard from Koh Rong Sanloem, blending Khmer and international influences in an enticing way.

Among the salads and soups, we chose a green mango salad, perfect before an active day, and a seafood tom yum, a vacation staple for my wife.

We hesitated between beef lok lak (the house specialty) and fish amok in coconut milk, eventually opting for a mixed selection, while our son chose a hamburger. We made a mental note to try later the stir-fried squid with green pepper or egg fried rice with meat of choice. Desserts such as coconut-pistachio mousse, mango sticky rice, or coconut crème brûlée promised an exotic sweet finish. The menu also offered Western dishes and pizzas at reasonable prices. Service was attentive, though somewhat slower toward the end of the meal.

Program

Protected from the sun by sunscreen and hats, we walked to the waterfall: ten minutes to reach a paid site, accessed by a sloping path through rocks and vegetation. The modest but pleasant cascade invited paddling, and a basic pool at its base offered clear, safe water—ideal for swimming with our son.

On the way back, vendors offered boat excursions at rather high prices. In the afternoon, my wife tried snorkeling without much success due to the wind. I walked from the wharf to the far end of the beach, noting the contrast between well-maintained resorts like Island Center Point and more rudimentary or under-construction guesthouses, reminiscent of Sihanoukville in the early 2000s. To preserve the island’s charm, taking inspiration from the best examples would be wise.

Before dinner, I went paddleboarding with my son, now a confident glider, while my wife, exhausted from swimming between the wharfs, preferred an early meal. We chose the romantic option for the two of us, leaving our son happily enjoying pizza at the main restaurant.

The romantic dinner at Island Center Point offered an intimate escape right on the beach, under a discreet cabana.

The five-course menu began with truffle mushroom arancini, octopus salad with lemon zest and honey vinaigrette, barracuda tartare with passion fruit, followed by shrimp bisque. The main courses offered either chicken confit with beetroot purée or braised lamb shoulder with saffron, risotto, carrots, and Brussels sprouts. Dessert, aptly named “Coconut Surprise,” layered pistachio, coconut cream, mango purée, and dark chocolate—a remarkable culinary achievement. It was a romantic feast under sea breezes and stars, enhanced by Italian prosecco or Chilean cabernet sauvignon.

Third day

On our final day, we made the most of the beach, doubly protected from the sun, with no wind and no clouds. This time, my wife’s snorkeling was a success, her excitement audible with each fish spotted near the shore. We played volleyball, paddled, took photos, and wandered along the beach, trying not to think about the imminent return to Phnom Penh.

Overall, it was a very positive experience, with few drawbacks and a true sense of escape. For an isolated, clean, and upscale seaside stay, Island Center Point is an ideal choice. The swimming pool, under construction during our visit, has since opened, adding another asset to the resort.

A bit of history

In 1858, the botanist Henri Mouhot, traveling from Chantaboun (present-day Thailand) to Cambodia, sailed past Koh Chang, Koh Kut, and Koh Kong before spotting an archipelago described as “almost deserted, yielding cardamom and gamboge from bamboo.” Enchanted, he forgot the hardships of the journey in the face of such unspoiled beauty.

He reached Kampot, then a pirate zone, and anchored in a peaceful bay, a day and a half from Kompong Som. This “admirable group of islands” is today’s Koh Rong (កោះរ៉ុង, meaning “large” or “prosperous,” according to Chuon Nath). Earlier, John Crawfurd had noted that “Rong” refers in both Siamese and Khmer to gamboge resin.

The qualifier សន្លឹម (Sanloem, meaning “distant” or “barely visible”) gave rise to Koh Rong Sanloem: “the prosperous but distant island.” Mouhot’s maps, later corrected by the French in 1866–1867, labeled it “Kong-san-lem.” In 1902, Claudius Madrolle described a wild haven of wooded hills, deep waters, wild boar, tigers, and a Cambodian post at Kompong Som.

Thus, this island—both “distant and close”—symbolizes a secret insular Cambodia, where original beauty converses with the echoes of its early explorers.