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Women's rights : Chantrea Thorn, From Dream to Recycled Jewelry Reality

Since her earliest childhood, jewelry has always fascinated Chantrea—not just the object itself, but also all the preceding creation and manufacturing processes, its symbolism, and its correlation with the personality of the person wearing it.

Chantrea Thorn
Chantrea Thorn

But the idea of one day designing her own pieces remained a distant, vaguely unattainable project. And yet: for the past few months, the young woman has been successfully presenting her first collection and is even surprised by the enthusiasm it has generated. A meeting with a creator who lacks neither talent nor inspiration.

Seeking Originality

It’s in a quiet locale, a green oasis just meters from the bustling Wat Bo Street, that Chantrea Thorn receives her clients. Amidst the artisanal objects stands a display case where the jewelry she has created sparkles. Necklaces, bracelets, and earrings inevitably catch the clients' eyes—some of whom come to see her from Phnom Penh.

Other visitors discover the shop during the workshops regularly organized on site. For the aptly named “Craft Alley” leads straight to the Ammo workshops, a social enterprise that proved crucial to Chantrea Thorn's career.

Creations by the Cambodian Artist
Creations by the Cambodian Artist

Decisive Encounter

After leaving school relatively early, Chantrea finds a job at a stall in Siem Reap's main night market, where she sells souvenirs as well as some jewelry. All objects made by other people, while the young woman dreams of designing her own jewelry. “I sorely lacked self-confidence; I told myself I didn’t have enough talent, imagination, or strength to achieve my goals.”

“The encounter with Maddie was decisive in that regard and helped give me the strength to believe in my possibilities.”

It was in 2015, while each was running a stall at the Shinta Mani Market, that the two women met for the first time. Madeline Greene was presenting jewelry created by Ammo, the social enterprise she had founded two years earlier. They hit it off instantly, establishing both a friendly and professional relationship right away.

Chantrea joins the Ammo team, takes on various roles, and above all, learns all the secrets of jewelry making. “Madeline always encouraged me; she showed me that the career of a creator was within my reach. It still took me time before I decided to take the plunge. And even now, I don’t feel 100% confident, because I still have a lot to learn.”

Creative Ammunition

Chantrea's modesty, however, contrasts sharply with the mastery she demonstrated in her first collection. It comprises 21 pieces, mostly made of bronze coated with a gold or silver alloy. The choice of bronze as the raw material stems directly from Ammo's philosophy, which is based on using recycled ammunition.

Littering the Cambodian soil, these objects of sinister purpose find a far more peaceful use once melted down and transformed into works of art. It was while visiting the countryside that Madeline Greene conceived her social enterprise project, noting both the abundance of buried munitions and the use made of them by the farmers.

Seeing these farmers fashion all sorts of tools from the munitions, the idea of crafts based on their recycling took root in the English creator's mind. Bringing these handmade jewelry pieces to market is not the brand's sole purpose; emphasis is also placed on training employees and encouraging them to develop their artisanal and creative skills.

Daring to Pick Up the Pencil

Very quickly, Chantrea trains in the art of jewelry making, which only fuels her desire to create: “I learned each of the necessary steps one by one and became capable of making necklaces, rings, and earrings alike.

But that didn’t stop me from feeling a certain frustration: the jewelry I was making was certainly beautiful, but they were never truly mine! So one day, I decided to pick up a pencil and sketch the outlines of a few jewelry pieces from my imagination. Just to see what it would yield.

When I was younger, I was quite good at drawing, which helped me perfectly transcribe the ideas in my head. A bit anxious, I showed these sketches to Madeline, who immediately encouraged me to keep going. No need to tell you how happy and proud I was!”

At the Phnom Penh Exhibition
At the Phnom Penh Exhibition

Phnom Penh: A Resounding Success

It was at the end of 2020 that the first pieces emerged from the Ammo workshops, just in time to be presented at the Made in Siem Reap Fair stand in Phnom Penh. There, among dozens of other creators and artisans from the temple city, Chantrea manages to stand out and spark interest in her jewelry:

“It was absolutely incredible; we made over $1,300 in sales in just 3 days, which is huge! I had big doubts about the success of such a venture: launching a collection while the country and the world were going through an unprecedented crisis seemed highly risky.”

“But I realized that people are always ready to buy jewelry, especially since we don’t charge very high prices. I also had some uncertainties about the clientele, but I quickly saw that my creations appeal to all ages and nationalities, which was a huge relief.”

From Sketch to Realization

Buoyed by this unexpected success, Chantrea completes her collection, with help from her brother, who is also a jeweler. “Once the design is set, everything is done in the Ammo workshops, which are both practical and safe: working with metals can indeed pose health risks if the space isn’t properly ventilated and organized.

This receives special attention here.” It takes artisans between 40 minutes and 1 hour 30 to make a piece of jewelry, depending on its complexity. “I can explain all this to you—and even teach you—during the practical workshops we regularly organize at Ammo. All audiences, children and adults alike, can discover jewelry making and create their own piece. It’s a unique experience! Of course, it’s just an introduction: it takes our artisans about 6 months of training to fully master their craft.”

Hyperactive

Following Madeline Greene's temporary departure to her home country, Chantrea is currently in charge of running the small enterprise, which employs 6 staff. Accounting, staff and sales management, order shipping, running discovery workshops, and welcoming clients are just some of the tasks the bubbly young woman handles.

This doesn’t stop her from finding time to promote her brand: “The days are long, indeed! But I still manage to handle the launch and promotion of Chan Alanka. I just created a Facebook page for it, which not only showcases the collection but also sells it.

Shipments are made in Cambodia and around the world, including to France. As for the brand name, it takes my first name, Chan, which means ‘Moon’ in Khmer, and Alanka, which translates to ‘jewelry.’ That’s why some of my creations feature the night sky as a motif.”

Exemplary Success

This first collection is just a step for Chantrea, who feels a surge of motivation from the success. “Designing, making, and selling my own creations has helped me feel much more at ease than before. I come from a family where education was quite strict.

‘Going out, meeting people, talking to them weren’t things that were part of my habits. So I had to make a considerable effort to dare approach others.’

‘Things have improved over the past few years; my work at Ammo and creating my brand have played a role in that. I’m not stopping there: I have tons of jewelry ideas in my head just waiting to be made, with new materials like pearls or stone. I’d also like to open a shop in Phnom Penh to gain more visibility. None of this would have been possible without the immense support I’ve received. Some people helped and encouraged me, and that’s a huge opportunity. I want to use that chance to show that all Cambodian women can follow their dreams and achieve great things, whatever their project.’”

https://www.facebook.com/inspireartisanscafe/ (initiation workshops)ion à la création joaillière)

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