Mondulkiri, on the edge of Cambodian coffee country: a region in search of a future

At dawn, the mist slowly lifts from the highlands of Mondulkiri, revealing rolling hills dotted with primary forests, sparse plantations and Bunong villages. Long isolated, this province in eastern Cambodia is now at the forefront of agriculture.

Its temperate climate, mineral-rich red soils and altitudes of up to 800 metres make it ideal for growing coffee, a rare product that nevertheless holds great promise for the local economy

Cambodia has never been among the big names in the global coffee industry, which is dominated by neighbouring Vietnam. But the rise of urban consumption, driven by Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, and the development of high-end tourism are opening up a new opportunity: to transform Mondolkiri into a land of experimentation and quality production. Experts are already talking about ‘micro-terroirs’ capable of attracting international roasters.

Local initiatives are still in their infancy. A few farmers' cooperatives, often supported by NGOs or private actors, are testing small plots of Arabica.

The conditions are demanding: the size of the plants, the harvest seasons and terrace drying must all be carefully controlled. But the initial results show a coffee with fruity, slightly acidic notes, in stark contrast to the mass-produced Vietnamese Robusta. The promise is therefore very real, provided that a solid ecosystem can be built.

The stakes go beyond the product itself. In Mondolkiri, where many Bunong families still live off subsistence farming, coffee could offer a source of diversified income

Unlike pepper or cassava, coffee requires regular maintenance and a long-term vision: a difficult gamble for households vulnerable to market fluctuations. Without technical support and access to credit, many risk giving up coffee cultivation, leaving the field open to outside investors.

Local authorities, aware of this potential, are beginning to include coffee in their development projects.

The idea is not only economic: it is also about image. Making Mondolkiri a ‘coffee destination’ would boost rural and eco-tourism, as the province already attracts visitors for its waterfalls, elephants and rolling landscapes. ‘Experiential tourism’ could be combined with mountain coffee tasting, transforming the terroir into a national brand.

It remains to be seen whether the chosen model will be inclusive. Lessons from past experiences with rubber and cassava show the risks: land grabbing, monoculture and profits slipping through the fingers of smallholders.

Conversely, a cooperative sector that promotes local identities and sustainable methods could put Mondolkiri on the map for speciality coffees, while giving its inhabitants a new sense of pride.

At a time when Cambodia is seeking to diversify its rural economy, Mondolkiri coffee represents both a challenge and a horizon. In these still wild hills, it is less a question of copying the Vietnamese model than of inventing a unique path: that of a rare, high-quality coffee, rooted in a land and a culture.

SO FARINA,

Senior Deputy Director

Cambodia Documentation Centre