In the Heart of Cambodia: Sarus Cranes, Artisans, and the Wonders of Phnom Teuk Thom
- Voyageuse Passion
- 3 days ago
- 7 min read
On the fourth day of our amazing vacation, the Kep West team invites us to explore the Anlung Pring Sanctuary and the Phnom Teuk Thom caves. We set off early by car, heading to Kampong Trach district in the neighboring province of Kampot. Along the way, we are treated to lush countryside views and the region’s signature rice paddies, a landscape that embodies the charm of rural Cambodia.
In the Heart of Anlung Pring: Meeting the Sarus Crane
The sun hangs low over the vast stretches of the Anlung Pring community protected area, casting a golden glow that shimmers across the photogenic wetlands. Here, in the symphony of silence and serenity, with the air tinged with the scent of wet earth and lotus flowers, I feel transported to a different world—a world of Cambodia’s splendid and mysterious nature. My son, husband, and I are buzzing with anticipation: it is our first opportunity to observe this incredible bird species and enter the sanctuary of the majestic Sarus crane.
The Majestic Sarus Crane
Nestled in Cambodia’s Lower Mekong seasonal floodplains, the 217-hectare Anlung Pring community protected area may be small, but its wetlands provide a crucial haven for migratory waterbirds, especially the globally threatened Sarus crane (Antigone antigone sharpii), which finds refuge here during the breeding season. Anlung Pring is more than just a wetland meadow—it is a dynamic ecosystem, a watershed linking upstream rivers and downstream flows, sustaining both biodiversity and local livelihoods. Each year, the site hosts more than 20,000 migratory waterbirds, including other threatened species such as the black-tailed godwit.
Community-Led Management
What sets Anlung Pring apart is its engaged, community-led management. Sanctuary officials guide us to their headquarters at an observation post, explaining that conservation here is not an abstract ideal but a lived reality, supported by local residents through innovative community ecotourism and sustainable natural resource management. This approach has created a revenue-generating ecotourism enterprise while fostering a deep bond between villagers and their environment. Community-led patrols monitor biodiversity and protect the area, preventing encroachment and preserving the fragile wetlands.
Local groups manage water levels, control invasive species, and restore habitats, demonstrating a model of conservation that balances ecological integrity with human well-being. Their efforts are reinforced by partnerships with NGOs and government agencies, reflecting a spirit of collaboration that makes Anlung Pring a conservation benchmark.
The officials speak of the delicate balance between human life and nature, and the interwoven traditions alongside modern conservation efforts. Through their words, the community’s dedication is palpable, and pride in their stewardship shines through. Anlung Pring is more than a protected area; it is a living testimony to coexistence—a sanctuary where culture and wildlife flourish together.
My son and I position ourselves on the wooden terrace, hoping to catch a glimpse of the famous Sarus cranes. The morning is quiet, and the birds are shy. Eventually, we spot two cranes at a distance, their elegance not yet fully appreciable. Meanwhile, we listen to the sanctuary guide explain these remarkable birds.
A Remarkable and Vulnerable Species
The Sarus crane in Cambodia is both remarkable and vulnerable, recognized as the world’s tallest flying bird, reaching up to 180 cm. Its vivid red head contrasts sharply with its grey body, making it one of Asia’s most distinctive waterbirds. Once widespread across South and Southeast Asia, Sarus crane populations have plummeted due to hunting, egg collection, and habitat loss. Cambodia now represents the last stronghold of the Southeast Asian subspecies (Grus antigone sharpii), with around 800 individuals—roughly half of the global population—residing in the country.
The species depends critically on two specific Cambodian wetland habitats: temporarily flooded plains during the rainy season for breeding, and marshes in the dry season for feeding. Programs led by the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) Cambodia in partnership with ministries and local communities have been underway since the early 2000s. These initiatives aim to protect breeding and feeding habitats, prevent hunting and poisoning, and raise public awareness. Despite these efforts, populations remain vulnerable, with some recent reports indicating declines even in protected areas. However, improved conservation measures and community engagement hint at potential stabilization or growth in Cambodia’s Sarus crane population.
Meeting the Basket Weavers
On the way back, we stop in a small village to meet Kampot’s basket weavers. This stop offers a rare glimpse into Cambodia’s traditional crafts, vital for both culture and local economy. In this village, basket weaving is a skill passed down through generations. Artisans primarily use natural materials such as the Ph’av palm or mangrove fan palm to craft versatile baskets for daily use—from carrying goods to holding offerings for Buddhist rituals.
Craftsmanship is deeply woven into community life. Many weavers are women who rely on their skill not only to preserve cultural heritage but also as a stable income source. Visiting them, we witness the rhythm of meticulous, skilled handiwork: cutting palm strips, weaving intricate patterns, and finishing baskets to balance utility and beauty. Observing these women in motion is mesmerizing—the rhythmic dance of expert hands brings centuries-old traditions to life.
The community leader explains the process: it begins with careful selection and preparation of raw materials. Leaves are dried in the sun, divided into uniform, flexible strips, and softened by soaking for weaving.
Sitting on mats, the weavers work in meditative silence, their hands moving with astonishing ease. They begin with the base, layering strips to form a sturdy foundation, gradually building the sides. The technique blends math and intuition, requiring a keen sense of symmetry and tension. As the basket or bag takes shape, fingers bend, fold, and tighten each strip to ensure durability. Patterns emerge, simple or complex, reflecting both tradition and the artisan’s personal touch. Edges are finished securely, and handles integrated seamlessly, marrying function and aesthetics.
The result is more than a bag; it is living heritage, woven with stories, skills, and the quiet pride of Cambodian craftsmanship. Unique in subtle variations, these creations carry the spirit of a people and the enduring elegance of artisanal tradition. Naturally, I purchase a few, delighted to take home a piece of this rural, handcrafted life.
The Magic of Phnom Teuk Thom
Our final morning stop is the Phnom Teuk Thom caves and surroundings. As we set out, my young son clings to my hand, curiosity shining in his eyes. Phnom Teuk Thom, a cave sanctuary nestled amid emerald rice fields and the gentle hum of rural life, awaits us. Like the bird sanctuary, this is a first visit, and we are eager.
Nearby, vast, lush rice paddies sway subtly in the breeze. Majestic water buffaloes stand stoically, their slow, deliberate movements a stark contrast to the bustling city life we left behind. My son’s eyes widen as a particularly impressive buffalo lifts its head, flaring its nostrils before returning to grazing peacefully.
This natural tableau evokes a profound sense of connection and authenticity, like a masterful painting. Watching the buffaloes is not just a visual delight—it is almost a tactile, meditative experience, reflecting the hard work, patience, and balance required to sustain such an environment. It offers a deeper appreciation of rural life, agricultural heritage, and the quiet dignity of those living in harmony with the land. After photographing these iconic animals, we head to the pond, where small boats await to take us to the main cave.
The caves, nature’s marvels, are gateways to another world—one full of magic and mystery. Gliding gently on calm waters, our boat slips quietly through the limestone walls towering along the riverbank. The air carries a sense of timelessness, as if the stones themselves whisper stories shaped by nature and history.
We approach the base of the small mountain, disembark carefully—boats are modest in size—and climb a few brick steps leading to a wooden terrace, a humble yet deeply beautiful space for prayer and reflection.
Bathed in soft light, the terrace offers breathtaking views of the surrounding canopy and river below. Amid rustling leaves and distant bird songs, we pause to absorb the peaceful ambiance. The simplicity of the wooden platform, combined with the sacred nature of the site, creates a unique, unforgettable moment—a harmonious blend of nature and spirituality. My husband takes a moment for Buddhist prayer while I photograph the striking limestone formations.
A Child’s Wonder
My son’s reaction to the caves and surrounding landscape is pure awe and curiosity. The shadowy, mysterious depths of Phnom Teuk Thom awaken his young imagination. The cool, wild beauty of the caves contrasts sharply with the open, sunlit rice fields, transforming the exploration into a true adventure. Back outside, the vast rice paddies and calm water buffaloes continue to captivate him. Walking along the long wooden-and-bamboo walkway encircling the caves, he marvels at the buffaloes’ size and deliberate movements, sensing their importance in local life. I am captivated by the expansive green of the paddies, blending seamlessly with the soft morning mist.
We arrive to enjoy a relaxed lunch under rustic stalls. My son beams, sharing this experience with his mother, making the day a memorable bonding adventure. The Kep West team has thought of everything, preparing a countryside basket filled with delights: Asian-style appetizers like spring rolls, delicious paninis, and a splendid assortment of fresh fruit. After our exploration, we enjoy shade and calm under the rustic wooden beams, complemented by a delicious iced coffee served by a warm, smiling Cambodian grandmother.
A Perfect Lunch Prepared by Kep West
This journey was more than a visit; it was an immersion, a living portrait of a land where nature, history, and daily life intertwine. Phnom Teuk Thom—with its caves, impressive buffalo, verdant rice fields, and warm smiles—leaves an indelible mark on our hearts, a story we will take home. After a short nap, we head back to Kep West, intent on a soothing massage and a wonderful dinner at the Wave.
To be continued…
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