Chaktomuk Temple: Cambodia's Unique Ancient Buddhist Sanctuary

Chaktomuk Temple, a unique ancient Buddhist sanctuary in Cambodia, could regain its popularity as a heritage site destination, as many tourists visited the attraction after its restoration in 2018.

The four back-to-back Buddha statues are considered unique in Cambodia. Hong Menea

The four back-to-back Buddha statues at the temple — oriented respectively toward the north, south, east, and west — are considered unique in Cambodia.

Chaktomuk Temple is located near the Bakan temples, also known as the Preah Khan Kompong Svay archaeological complex, built between the 11th and 14th centuries about 100 km east of Angkor, in Preah Vihear Province.

Before the restoration, the upper half of the temple structure had collapsed, with the four back-to-back Buddha statues covered in invasive plants that had eroded their surfaces.

Rare and Unique

In 2019, the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts designated Chaktomuk Temple as one of the rarest and most unique in Cambodia. During a ceremonial event, Vice Prime Minister Men Sam An, who was tasked at the time with overseeing the temple's restoration, stated that the work had been carried out with several objectives:

First, to precisely identify the construction date of the structure; second, to prevent the public from damaging the weathered Buddha statues; third, to promote cultural and religious tourism; and finally, to attract more visitors.

The design of Chaktomuk Temple recalls the four smiling faces statue at the world-famous Bayon Temple in the Angkor Archaeological Park, built in homage to Avalokitesvara (a bodhisattva who embodies the compassion of all Buddhas).

"The four directions faced by each Buddha statue relate to the four Brahmaviharas: Metta [loving-kindness], Karuna [compassion], Mudita [sympathetic joy], and Upekkha [equanimity]," explained Thuy Chan Theoun, an archaeology professor at the Royal Academy of Cambodia.

"To my knowledge, Chaktomuk is the only temple with joined back-to-back Buddha statues in the country. It is a unique temple."

Chaktomuk Temple was built in the 12th century, during the reign of King Jayavarman VII. At that time, the king had led his men to the Bakan temples to repel Cham troops before retaking Yasodharapura (the city of Angkor) from the Cham invaders in 1181.

The statues are located among the Bakan temples, also known as the Preah Khan Kompong Svay archaeological complex. Hong Menea

According to Chan Theoun, "Bakan Kampong Svay (Preah Khan Kompong Svay) is the largest ancient city in the kingdom. The ancient city is where King Jayavarman VII's troops stayed."

However, Chan Theoun claims to have discovered other back-to-back Buddha statues that were destroyed in other temples: "I found four statues at Wat Tralaeng Keng in Lungvek commune, Kampong Chhnang Province, which is another ancient city (1528 to 1594) built after the Angkor era.

"Today, at Wat Tralaeng Keng, we can only see the feet of the statues. According to locals, the Buddha statues were dragged to Tonlé Sap Lake, east of the pagoda."

"Locals say they found the Wat Tralaeng Keng statues in Tonlé Sap Lake, claiming that Siamese troops dragged them there. Fishermen say they know they are the statues, but they are unable to pull them out of the water."

Chan Theoun had planned to retrieve the statues from the lake:

"This is my own initiative. I stood on the riverbank looking at the spot where locals claim to have made the discovery. I want to rent a sand dredger and a crane to bring the stone back to its original location. However, I have not yet realized my dream, as I lack both the time and the budget."

There are many other temples at Preah Khan Kompong Svay, such as Preah Domrei, Preah Thkoal, Preah Stung, Mebon, and Chaktomuk.

Raksmey Hong with our partner The Phnom Penh Post