Cambodia & Destination: On the heights of Phnom Krom

The rainy season is undoubtedly the most beautiful of all, offering landscapes where land and water seem in perfect harmony with a majestic sky. All bathed in an unreal light of extreme contrast, much to the delight of painters and photographers. Or, quite simply, for anyone with even the slightest appreciation of the beauty of a country that's no slouch when it comes to wonders of all kinds.

Phnom Krom hill, 120 meters high in the south of Siem Reap, is one of those enchanting places that must be visited at this time of year. While the site itself is well worth a visit, the journey there is full of surprises and provides the perfect opportunity to escape the hustle and bustle of Siem Reap for an afternoon.

A bend in the river

Just 12 kilometers from the city center, the journey to Phnom Krom can be easily made by motorcycle or, ideally, on a bicycle, the ideal companion for enjoying the surrounding area. Whichever means of transport you choose, let's cross Siem Reap and head south along the river.

The scrolling roadside boutiques offer an eclectic panorama.

There's no shortage of things to see along the way: fishermen, some armed with rods, others casting nets, populate the riverbanks as strollers watch the catch. Lonely souls sit on the benches or railings lining the road, gazing dreamily at the glittering waves, while emaciated cows graze on a patch of lawn.

Nearby, on a table, rest 5 or 6 stainless steel pots containing their delicacies, the smell of which touches the nostrils. Kids in uniform, perched on bicycles that are sometimes much too big for them, ride in a merry band, their schoolbags slung over their shoulders. Saffron-robed monks return to their pagodas. A few balding, scruffy-looking dogs, who won't even bother barking at your approach, rub shoulders with haughty, hieratic white geese. Finally, the scroll of roadside stores offers an eclectic panorama, with hairdressers, restaurateurs, television repairmen, tailors, grocers and other merchants whose activities are as varied as they are improbable.

A string of pagodas

Why not stop for a few minutes at one of the many pagodas lining the road, havens of peace conducive to meditation as well as meetings with monks always ready to strike up a conversation. Wat Kong Moch, Wat Po Banteaychey and Wat Aranh Sakor are just across the river. All worth a visit, but perhaps we should save ourselves for later. In the meantime, we're off to the Psar Athvea market, which may be tiny but whose authenticity is sure to win visitors over. You'll find excellent fruit and succulent grilled fish.

A little further on, we see a large pink gate announcing the proximity of a pagoda. If we have time, we turn right and, after a few minutes, stop at the Wat Athvea temple. Dating back to the 12th century, this place has never ceased to be devoted to worship, as a modern pagoda surrounds the ancient temple.

We're already moving away from the city, and after just a few kilometers, Cambodia is revealed here in all its beauty. Gradually, the buildings become more scattered, revealing the landscapes surrounding the road. The lotus plantations, with their broad leaves resting on the mirror-like water, are well worth a stop: if we have time, we can rent a small bungalow on the water's edge. Comfortably installed in a hammock, drinks and food can be consumed in peace and quiet in this phantasmagorical setting.

In pursuit of the sun

But let's not forget the main purpose of our excursion: to reach the summit of Phnom to watch the sun set over the rice paddies that surround it. The road, now devoid of curves, allows us to glimpse the silhouette of the hill ahead. Along the way, lotus flower vendors set up their little stalls and, for half a dollar, will hand you a bouquet from which you can extract the seeds. Although not particularly tasty, they are nevertheless pleasantly fresh, not forgetting their many nutritional benefits: manganese, phosphorus and vitamin B1.

Let's save them for the summit, since we're almost there: a few more efforts and we're at the foot of the hill, in front of the monumental staircases that lead up to it. If you've chosen to cycle, it's best to leave the bikes at the bottom and continue the ascent on foot. By motorcycle, things are easier, as the road running alongside the Phnom allows direct access. Such worries don't seem to concern the numerous goats that, by some miracle, have made it to the walls and, from their full height, seem to be taunting you with a wry look.

Panoramic view

On the way up, you quickly realize how popular the site is, especially on weekends. There, on the hillside, on mats or plastic chairs, strollers enjoy beers and grilled meats while contemplating the Grand Lac. The landscape around Phnom varies enormously depending on the time of year you visit. In the dry season, you'll have to squint to see a tiny expanse of water at the far end of the horizon. In the rainy season, the small village below transforms into a lakeside city, while the lake licks the base of the hill.

It's time to take a look at your watch: if it's not yet 5:30 p.m., you'll be asked for a ticket, the same as that required for access to the Angkor temples. After this time, the guards allow free access. After following the steep path, we finally reach the summit, rewarded for our efforts by a panoramic view over the Cambodian plain. Let's move on to the temple, which is well worth the effort, even if the eroded sandstone of its stones shows the ravages of time.

Phnom Krom, the "hill downstream

Probably occupied since time immemorial, Phnom Krom hill is a highly strategic promontory, providing a bird's eye view of the entire lake area. The site came into its own under King Yasovarman I, one of the most eminent rulers in Angkorian history. It was under his impetus that a new capital was created, abandoning the site of Roluos for that of Yaśodharapuraa, better known to us as Angkor. There, he set up his main temple on top of Bakheng hill, taking the precious sacred linga with him. What could be more natural, when you're looking to get close to the deities, than to set up shop on high ground?

Wat Athvea

While the new city was being built below, two other hills were being developed: Phnom Bok and Phnom Krom. Dedicated to the three major deities of the Hindu pantheon, Vishnu, Brahma and Shiva, the temples were gradually abandoned over the following centuries, leaving only a pile of stones gradually covering the statues once worshipped. It was only at the end of the 19th century, and especially at the beginning of the 20th, that clearing and restoration work was carried out, while the statues were moved to the National Museum in Phnom Penh.

A final word from Henri Marchal

Crossing the temple, we reach the promontory to the west, facing the waning sun. Provided there's enough water to reflect the sun's rays, the whole landscape, sky and land, will take on a ruddy hue whose infinite nuances seem to evolve with every passing minute. It's time to head back to town, but not without inhaling the scents released by the cool night air on the way home.

That's if you're not behind one of the many buses making the journey, as Phnom Krom has become a popular place to visit. Fortunately, this is far from the hustle and bustle of the main temples. You'll need to be careful on the road after dark, however, as everyone is in a hurry to get back to the city.

Let's just think back on the journey, to the lines written in 1928 by Henri Marchal: "There's a landscape that's absolutely delightful and that has always won the acclaim of the many artists who have seen it: it's the river running through the village of Siem Reap, which the road leading to Phnom Krom and the Grand Lac follows for almost ten kilometers.

This river, with its capricious meanders shaded by beautiful clumps of bamboo and its evergreen banks, has an incomparable charm; I don't think it's possible to remain insensitive to it when you follow it, either in the morning hours when the sun begins to pierce the foliage, or at dusk when the shadows spread their mystery among the palm groves and the water catches the last glimmers of daylight. A landscape unique, I believe, in Cambodia, and one that can rival the most beautiful in Ceylon."