Cambodge & Retraite : Douceur de vivre à Battambang pour moins de 600 $ par mois
- Editorial team
- 14 hours ago
- 5 min read
An Example of a Great Place to Live in Cambodia: Battambang, the City with a Hint of French Charm, Where Time Seems to Flow So Slowly and Peacefully… Report by Steve King.
I think it's the pace of life and the provincial town atmosphere that charmed me the most in Battambang. Cambodia's second city in terms of population (about 250,000), is located in the northwest of the country; it's a social and welcoming place, still far from the tourist hustle of some neighborhoods in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, or Sihanoukville.
Slowness and Tranquility of Cambodian Time
In Battambang, no one seems in a hurry; strolling, having a drink, or meeting people seem to be popular pastimes… when I'm in town, people, expats, talk to me freely about the latest restaurant they liked, the latest art gallery that just opened, the yoga class.
"At Battambang, time passes more slowly, there's a real breeze of nostalgia, a colonial scent, an almost Indochinese sweetness of life… another world, far from the dizzying development of Phnom Penh."
I first came to visit Battambang in 2006. There have been some changes, new shops have opened, some old French buildings have been restored, others have disappeared, but aside from the roads, there are few new infrastructures. Some streets in the center are still dusty, and I find the same street vendors or their children. Near the city, the ruins of two ancient temples still await improbable or not urgent restoration, mirroring the slowness and tranquility of Cambodian time so well expressed in this city of Battambang.
A Little Air of France
You can walk from one end of the city center to the other in about thirty minutes, along the paved alleys lining the banks of the Sangker River, which runs through the middle of the city. The parks along the riverbanks are well-maintained and are meeting and leisure spots for city dwellers; they come to play with their children on the playgrounds, meet friends, enjoy the shaded benches, or simply exercise. On both sides, Buddhist wats (temples) offer a quiet refuge for inspiration, rest, and reflection.
Several huge neoclassical mansions with imposing entrances, adorned with spectacular columns and extravagant balconies, are scattered around the city, remnants of the time when Cambodia was a French protectorate. Most buildings in the city center are at least a hundred years old. On the ground floors of these memory buildings, you'll find shops, restaurants, cafes. The city also hosts an arts university, which has attracted artists from across the country. Battambang is therefore experiencing a certain cultural revival, with several galleries showcasing the work of the kingdom's best artists.
British Experience
Kate Shuttleworth, a British woman, lived in Battambang for seven years. She says it was very easy to meet people:
"There are book clubs, movie nights, trivia quizzes, barbecues, yoga classes open to all; it's very easy to socialize here…"
Battambang is also an early-to-bed city; there are few establishments in the city that stay open after 9 PM. This suits some expats like Pat, from Kansas and a long-time traveler who decided to retire in Battambang four years ago: "...I don't want nightlife and noisy parties, and this suits me perfectly…," he says.
The many ancient temples in the countryside are quite similar to the famous temples of Siem Reap, but they receive very few visitors. Exploring the ruins without bumping into crowds of tourists is a real adventure and a unique experience. Wat Ek Phnom, located just thirteen kilometers from Battambang, is the most visited ruined temple in the region. However, on weekdays, you'll probably have the temple to yourself.
Restoration
Two of the city's finest restaurants, Au Cabaret Vert and the Bambu Hotel Restaurant, offer refined Cambodian and European cuisine. A meal for two at each restaurant, with an aperitif and drinks, won't cost more than thirty-eight US dollars.
Most other restaurants in the city are much cheaper, and dinner for two, including drinks, will cost twenty dollars or less. Of course, if you eat where the locals do, you can find cheap and healthy food for just one or two dollars. Beer in a restaurant costs about fifty cents. If you feel like a little time travel, there's also La Villa, a place with wonderful colonial architecture (1930) offering mixed cuisine at very affordable prices.
Cost of Living
Like Cambodia as a whole, the cost of living in Battambang is quite low. Renting a house is particularly cheap. Renting a modern-style house will cost you 200 to 400 US dollars per month.
A two-room or small furnished apartment, with a communal pool and most utilities included, will cost less than 285 dollars per month. The expats I spoke with all say their biggest housing expense is electricity. Most of them report spending at least eighty dollars per month.
Pat lives comfortably on his small social security income and teaches English a few hours each week: "My monthly bills range from 255 to 310 US dollars, including rent, water, electricity, and Internet. I shop at the market and cook at home. Going out for lunch occasionally is my biggest expense, but it costs me around five dollars or a bit more. I walk a lot, I don't use tuktuks or motodops. My average monthly budget is under 510 dollars."
Connectivity
Battambang isn't a very large city, and it's not really necessary to own a motorbike, and if needed, a motodop or tuktuk ride in the city rarely exceeds one dollar. The nearest commercial airport is in Siem Reap, about three hours away.
There are regular bus, van, or taxi lines to Phnom Penh or Bangkok from Battambang. Many expats settled here after first living in another Asian city. Moving to a relatively small community requires adjustments, and gaining experience in a more populated area can make adaptation easier or harder… And Battambang is a city with a very low crime rate, another argument for choosing this destination for those who love calm and sweetness of life.
Philippe the Fortunate
In response to our previous article on the kingdom's appeal as a retirement destination, Philippe commented: "I've been living very well in Battambang for 18 months. My budget is between a third and a quarter of my small retirement! I deprive myself of nothing, not even the superfluous! And believe me, I've always been a 'big spender'! I have my 125 scooter, rented yearly, and my lodging in a very comfortable hotel!!! Even a kitchenette and 1000 square meter terrace for 80 euros monthly!
And restaurant every day (1 to 4 euros/meal) + 3 to 4 full tanks of gas per week (52 cents per liter) for my scooter! Over 30,000 km in the Battambang district this last year!!! I'm not an adventurer or a hippie, I'm 70 years old!!! Yes, I don't live Western-style, I eat Khmer, live as I want, and avoid Westerners.... with a few exceptions! (3 or 4) Crossing half the world to live like in Mulhouse or Grenoble (non-exhaustive cities) makes me roar with laughter! But of course I respect everyone's choices.... Welcome to those who dare, leave your worries and prejudices where you come from!!!"
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