At the end of a wooden pier battered by winds off the gulf, under sun-bleached parasols, a handful of families have kept up the same routine for a century: sorting, tying, cooking and selling Kep's blue crab. Psar Kdam, the “crab market,” is not simply a tasty stop on the road to Kampot. It is the living memory of a town that lost almost everything — except its bond with the sea.