White Mansion: My Timeless Family Escape in Phnom Penh
- Duong Thi Hang
- 6 hours ago
- 6 min read
My name is Duong Thi Hang, an executive at a hospital in Phnom Penh. Recently, exhausted by the frantic pace of my end-of-year work, I decided to treat my family to a well-deserved moment of relaxation at the White Mansion Hotel in the capital.
Accompanied by my husband and our son Antonio, nine years old and an unconditional fan of discoveries, we decided to drop our bags for a weekend at this iconic establishment on Street 240, in the Wat Langka neighborhood. This boutique hotel promises — according to the reviews I've read — "a universe of discreet luxury and timeless elegance, far from the urban hustle of the capital."
The Discovery of the White Mansion
As our taxi turns into the narrow alley lined with fairly high walls and a few tall trees, I wonder if we've taken the right path. But behind a discreet entrance hides an authentic surprise: the gateway reveals a tropical garden with palms, bamboos, and frangipani trees. The facade is quite impressive: white walls, soaring heights, a truly colonial or vintage style (in the noble sense of the term), giving the impression of a little journey through time.
From Diplomacy to Design: A Successful Metamorphosis
From what I've been able to read, this exceptional residence, which was probably built in the 1990s, likely saw the great figures of regional geopolitics of those years pass through when the building served as the residence for the U.S. ambassador. Its salons may have hosted historic receptions, witnesses to the close — and sometimes tumultuous — ties between Washington and the kingdom's government.
After years of urban transformations, the property began its second life in 2011. A meticulous renovation allowed this political sanctuary to be converted into a luxury boutique hotel. The challenge was significant: preserve the ancient neoclassical soul of the building while infusing it with contemporary Khmer minimalism.
A Preserved Architectural Heritage
Crossing the threshold of the White Mansion, I remind myself, is like traveling back in time. The architects preserved the structural elements that were the pride of the diplomatic residence: the monumental teak staircase, the centerpiece of the entrance hall; the high ceilings and generous volumes, inspired by prestigious Indochinese architecture.
My husband, always pragmatic, is impressed by the cleanliness of the place — not a speck of dust on the granite floors — and the smiling Khmer staff who welcome us with fresh fruit juice, inform us of restaurant hours, massage options, and other practical details. Not all hotels do that. Check-in at reception goes smoothly.
There is an elevator, but I'm far too eager to climb the steps of this rather impressive staircase!
Our family suite is surprisingly spacious. Generous in size, it features two plush king-size beds, a private balcony, and a spa-worthy bathroom: rain-effect shower and lotus-scented toiletries.
Sound insulation is very good; despite the proximity to the street, virtually no noise reaches the suite.
The Maads group has managed the property since 2019, imprinting its mark mainly through decoration playing on strong color contrasts, touches of exoticism and antiques, and, of course, quality service.
The Atmosphere
What really seduces me is this well-preserved old-world atmosphere. Walking on period parquet floors, under coffered ceilings adorned with floral motifs, with palm-leaf fans lazily turning, one could imagine being in an old film or a Marguerite Duras novel.
We spot a few antiques in the lobby, an old fan, a cyclo near the pool, adding to the retro ambiance without excess.
The hotel has only about thirty rooms, which enhances an appreciable intimacy: no noisy crowds, just a handful of privileged guests enjoying the calm.
In the suite, little to complain about with the furniture — everything is there, including those bed benches I love, which Antonio quickly clutters with all his stuff. I test the internet: more than sufficient for our three devices. As for the TV, it's a bit vintage and the image quality isn't the best. No matter, we're not here to watch television.
Calm, Pool, and Lunch
Before lunch, I settle into a comfortable chaise longue, under moderate sun, by the pool. The water, a limpid blue but a bit cool, ripples against the edges. With a fresh fruit cocktail in hand, I observe the surrounding calm; time flows peacefully, inviting measured relaxation in this very real haven of peace.
I like the concept: although the hotel is surrounded by a few tall buildings, the atmosphere remains sufficiently intimate thanks to the abundant surrounding vegetation. I'll try a dip, but the water is a bit cold as the sun plays hard to get. My son and husband don't hesitate, and my tranquility is over...
There are several dining spaces: the Café itself, with cafeteria-style furniture but well decorated; an elegant garden veranda-pavilion; and the purely garden area.
We choose the outdoor side, promising to try the veranda tonight, as it must be even nicer with the garden and its lighting.
The menu resembles those of other Maads-managed establishments: a good balance of Western, Asian, typically Cambodian, and original dishes, not forgetting vegan-vegetarian options. Prices range from $6 to $15 USD. I see two meat dishes that tempt me, but I opt for fried Norwegian salmon with asparagus.
My son seems to forget there are more interesting dishes than spaghetti carbonara; same for my husband, who settles for a Mediterranean salad in tortillas. Service is quick, and I'm delighted to taste a preparation different from my daily routine.
The fish is really well cooked, and the accompaniment well thought out. Generally, I'm not big on desserts, but when I see "crème brûlée" on the menu, I want to try it. It's served with a coulis I don't use, preferring it plain. It's quite successful. As for my kid, given the speed at which he devoured his spaghetti, the chef apparently didn't miss the mark. My husband doesn't comment on his dish, a sign that it's fine...
The afternoon will be lazy: we don't feel like leaving this cocoon, and the room is so vast and airy that we spend time lounging, reading, in short, doing almost nothing. A short walk around to stretch our legs late afternoon, though.
Surprisingly, the neighborhood is quiet this weekend. Maybe the crowds have moved to Riverside, now very popular since becoming pedestrian. A few tuk-tuk drivers call out to us, but without insisting.
Dinner on the Veranda
We head to the veranda. The decor is really pleasant in the evening. I'll finally indulge in the rib I had spotted: a New Zealand lamb rib, very well prepared, with wine sauce and the essential Kampot pepper.
I'm almost jealous of the chef, as I've never managed to cook this type of meat properly. The sauce includes a bit of garlic, vinegar, and lemongrass; this blend of flavors suits me perfectly.
As for the kid, my son orders the same: spaghetti carbonara, proof they must be really good since he's quite demanding. For starters, we'll share a fresh salmon salad, no complaints.
As for the husband, who loves quiches, he tries the cheese and ham one. He finishes it but adds a caveat: not salty enough compared to Lorraine quiches, always spiced up by bacon.
For dessert, I have another crème brûlée, and my son decides to do the same. He too won't touch the coulis but will savor it. For this dinner, service was quite quick and attentive.
The night will be peaceful, on very comfortable bedding in a room decidedly perfectly designed for calm.
Breakfast
The Café is also a pleasant space with a glass facade overlooking the street. Just like in the lobby — which hosts a clothing boutique — a few shelves are dedicated to local products: Kampot pepper, chocolate, beauty products, and natural drinks. All Made in Cambodia, with some brands not found in stores.
The Café offers many pastries, meringues, and macarons. It's also possible to order à la carte from several sets, Western or Asian.
I ate so well the night before that I contented myself with fruit juice and a few madeleines, a French product I was discovering and curiously similar to some local cakes.
The hotel director, Sengcheang Kuy, comes by all smiles to inquire about our short stay and ask if everything went well. We naturally responded positively. She mentions we should have tried the spa before leaving to cap off this relaxation interlude.
Conquered
Rest: that's the word that fits this stay. Mental rest thanks to the calm and change of scenery — not easy to find this kind of oasis in Phnom Penh at reasonable prices — gastronomic rest because we ate a lot and rather well, rest and disconnection because it's very hard to fully unplug from work worries on short vacations.
And there, I succeeded.
Then I thought the place is well-suited for tourists discovering the capital, as the White Mansion is close to everything: the Quays, Central Market, and the Museum. Finally, if family or even business contacts from outside were looking for a luxury hotel at reasonable prices, totally escapist, blending elegance with attentive service and a serene atmosphere, I'd send them there with little hesitation.
