Tourism & Destination: From Phnom Penh to Siem Reap via the Tonle Sap

For those who want a slightly different trip and want to take the time to discover part of the Tonlé Sap, it is possible to travel to Siem Reap by boat.

Long journey

There are several companies offering this experience. The journey is long, taking around seven hours. But it can be a rewarding experience. The trip is only possible when the lake levels are high enough, i.e. during the monsoon season from May to mid-November.

We set off from Phnom Penh at 7.30am, at the pier at the end of the Sisowath quay, in front of the Titanic restaurant. The boat is not full. That's a good thing, because the few passengers who take the boat seem to be competing for the biggest backpack.

The boat isn't new, but it looks well maintained, the windows aren't brand new, but the seats have been redone, the inside walkways are clean and the captain, who boards not without forgetting to buy a few cans of beer, seems to know his stuff...

At precisely 7.30 am, the engines start up with a reassuring noise. A single, well-executed manoeuvre to leave the wharf and the boat slowly heads towards the first tributary that will lead to the great lake.

This is one of the most interesting stretches, at least for photographers or those discovering the lake for the first time. It's a chance to see the Cambodian countryside come to life, to see the first fishermen setting off to catch their nets, and to admire the natural beauty of the banks with their pastures, palm trees and riverside huts. It is advisable to have a good zoom lens, as the canal is fairly wide and it is rare to find yourself very close to a boat.

After around two hours, the shores recede and the heart of the great lake approaches. And while there is no activity, the sensation is quite unique. There's something unreal about finding yourself in the middle of this immense, almost motionless expanse of water. The sky, water as far as the eye can see, nothing else. And it's even more impressive when the weather is calm.

At this point, it is advisable to have a good book or film on your tablet, as the crossing leaves you in the middle of this science-fiction landscape for what can seem like an interminable few hours before arriving at the Siem Reap landing stage. For the more agile, it's possible to climb onto the roof and enjoy a siesta in the sun.

It's when you see the first tourist boats sailing towards the floating village of Kampong Phluk that you feel the arrival is imminent.

Since 2007, when I made my first crossing and discovered the floating villages, the reception structure has changed a great deal. Concrete blocks have replaced the old, much more folkloric access to the boats. Business, profitability, probably?

On arrival, the eternal tuktuk drivers and buses await you. One small advantage is that Phnom Penh's river company allows you to buy a transfer from the port to your hotel for five dollars. Simply wave your ticket and a driver will take you there, without trying to increase the fare.

For those who want to try this rather unique experience, the ticket price is 37 US dollars at Mekong-Explore, which offers the trip in both directions and can also take you to Chau Doc from Phnom Penh.

The journey may be less pleasant if the boat is full, as many passengers like to move from the inside to the outside railings, and some passengers are as bulky as their backpacks.