You must see it at least once. Not in a photo, not on a screen — for real, standing there facing the gulf, with the monsoon wind pushing clouds across the sky like it has somewhere to be. Kep in green season is not the Kep of postcards. It's better than that.

It only takes a sunset to transform the ordinary into the extraordinary. That evening, on National Road 1 connecting Phnom Penh to Vietnam, the sky decided to set the clouds on fire — literally.