From the Green Globe-certified Sofitel Angkor to the bioclimatic jungloos of MAADS, and — regrettably in some cases — to gyms left permanently lit, air-conditioned, and nearly empty: an investigation into what eco-hotel certifications are really worth in a country where regulation remains fragile, and into the central role of training in building truly sustainable tourism. Important: all establishments mentioned have been visited by the magazine's editorial team.