Behind the great classics of Khmer sweets — num ansom, num kom, kralan — hides a quieter dessert whose story reaches back to a Chinese imperial envoy sent to observe the Khmer Empire at its height. Ta guan, a pudding of yellow mung beans served in a clear tapioca syrup, appears in no tourist guide. It passes on quietly, kitchen to kitchen.

Cambodian cuisine offers a vibrant array of desserts that reflect the country's rich cultural heritage and its blend of Asian influences. Th